The Definitive Guide for Climbing Mount Kinabalu for First Timers

In October 2017, three other men and I did the demanding climb of Mount Kinabalu with no prior climbing experience or preparatory training. Although it sounds crazy, it can be done.  This Definitive Guide for First Timers is therefore a short recount of the experience of guys who just want to do it without too much work.  

The climb of Mount Kinabalu starts outside Kota Kinabalu at Timpohon Gate (1866m) around 10am in the morning, with an intermediate rest stop at Laban Rata (3273m) before  commencing the climb to the top at Low’s Peak (4095m) in the early hours of the morning.  The total climb is 9km, with the first part 6km and the second part 3km. (The 3km section of the route at the top has been extended following the earthquake in 2015 that killed 22 people, to avoid certain danger areas.)  The walk starts through vegetated tropical forest and ends in rock and granite face at the top.  Very nice to see the change in flora and fauna.  The entire journey can be walked without equipment. The difficulty of the climb is really down to two factors – the steepness of the climb and the thinning of the oxygen at the higher altitudes. 

Timpohon Gate to Laban Rata. 

I did the mathematics, and the best way to describe the 6km climb is that it is equivalent to climbing up 7905 staircases with two strides on flat ground in between each stair. The climb steepens, the air thins, and the temperature drops the closer that you get to Laban Rata.  For first timers, this climb will take between 4 to 5 hours with a toll on your quadriceps.    Thinking back, these are the things I would do different.

Dress lighter.  The first part can be completed in comfortably in shorts, a T-shirt and hiking boots or shoes.  If it rains, maybe rain gear.  Guides use umbrellas.  Temperatures will drop from 20 degrees at the start to about 14 degrees at Laban Rata (3273m) 

Pack lighter. Laban Rata is a full serviced rest house.  Essentials can be bought there.  Take it as a challenge to pack as little as possible.  A pack of under 6kg is achievable. My light list is as follows:

a. 1.5 litres of water.  If you are brave, even less and refill water along the way. The rainwater from the refill tanks at rest stops is untreated.  I was told that the water has been tested and it is 99% pure.  But I brought my own.  

b. Clothes for the Ascent to the Peak.  You need a different set of clothes for the second part.  I will explain this later.  

c. Toiletries for Laban Rata

d. Headlamp and Gloves.

f. Lunch.  A light snack will suffice.  Fatigue kills appetite.

g. Celebratory Flask for the peak.  More of this later. 

h. Camera.  Or your phone can double up as one.  Bring a charger or spare batteries.  You can recharge at Laban Rata.    

i. Personal effects . Passport, wallet etc. 

Walking poles help, but they make you look less cool.  All the experienced climbers did not have walking poles.  You can do it with, or without. 

Consume Fluids, Salts and Diamox.  The prevention of muscle fatigue and cramp is important. I took energy gels at rest stops, which worked fine.  Oxygen concentration thins fairly more rapidly after 2500m.  I took Diamox and suffered no effects of altitude sickness.  Unsure if it helped but better be safe than sorry. 

That’s it!  it is  amazing how altitude and steepness affects performance.  Once over 3000m, I was walking as slow as 7min per 100km, a ridiculous pace.  But I reached the Laban Rata before 3pm.

Laban Rata to Low’s Peak. 

At Laban Rata, you shower, change, eat and sleep to prepare you for the ascent to the mountain peak early morning.  Dinner was served by 1630 hrs and I collapsed to bed by 1700hrs.  I opened my eyes at 0030hrs in the morning to prepare for the climb which commenced at 1430hrs.  

Do not overeat.  Breakfast is served at 0200hrs.  Climbing at altitude makes you a little nauseous so having a full stomach is not the sensation you want to have.  Eat enough, but leave a little spare room.  You will not be thinking of food during the climb.   

Dress Differently.  The temperature at Laban Rata in early morning will be around 7 degrees Celsius, and can be as cold as 2 degrees at Low’s Peak. At daybreak, the temperatures will rise quickly.  Get into new clothes.  The old clothes will be wet.  Dress in layers, so that you can remove clothing as the temperature rises.  3 layers is good.  4 if you are afraid of the cold.   Long trousers are preferred here – although I saw one person climb in shorts.  You will be walking in the dark and a headlamp is helpful.  You also want gloves as you will be gripping some ropes.

Pack even lighter.  Bring a smaller pack and pack below 3kg.  The essentials are:

1.       1.5 litres of water

2.       A camera

3.       A celebratory flask of either coffee or whiskey to be drunk at the top

4.       Raingear 

5.       Optional Walking Poles 

Everything else stays in Laban Rata. 

Walk and Rest.  There will be a trial of people climbing to the top, but this will spread out as you near the top.  The climb past Sayat-Sayat hut – the last checkpoint – is the hardest, across a granite rock face.  The air is very thin and you are left gasping for air.  I adopted a technique of moving 100 paces and then resting for 90 seconds before taking the next 100 paces. Sunrise is around 0545hrs and most people reach the peak in 3 hours.  If early, huddle and wait for the sunrise. The views are spectacular. You will never get better photos being anywhere else in Sabah. 
Low’s Peak to Laban Rata and Timpohon Gate

Some say the journey down is harder than climbing up.  Intuitively this cannot be true.  But it may feel that way for two reasons.  Firstly, coming down is more about slowing the forward movement, especially down steep slopes.  This is not natural and does exercise parts of the body that we never do.  Secondly, as climbing down is done on the same day as the assault on the peak, the entire walk is longer by 6km.  So yes, you do get more tired and this translates into greater aches! 

Tighten your boots/shoes.  Otherwise your toes will jam against the front of the boots with every step.  This will lead to bleeds under the nails. 

Go slow during the descent from Low’s Peak to Laban Rata.  It is steep so you may as well stay safe and enjoy the views.  Take photos and get the guides to tell you stories about the mountain. 

Delayer.  Take off one layer and put it in the pack.  Daybreak and sunshine warms the rock surface rapidly.  Stay cool!  The trip back will take about 2 hours.

Have a good breakfast. Breakfast awaits you at Laban Rata.  Eat.  You will not get the same bloated feeling, so it is ok to eat. 

Dress back into shorts and T Shirt.  The trip down will be warmer.  Repack everything. 

Load up on 1.5 litres of water.  That’s all you need

Try to not fight gravity and keep moving forward.  Move as quickly as you can moving down steps without falling.  Most of us are not as sure footed as the porters who skip merrily down the hill but that is the idea.  Any retardation hurts the knees, stresses the calves and quads.  

Lose the Walking Poles.  I think they are less of a utility here.  They stop you moving quickly.

It is quite incredible that there was only a marginal difference in time coming down from Laban Rata to Timpohon than on the way up.  But enjoy the feeling as you are passing climbers who are doing what you did yesterday.  You have done it and they are just starting.   

Postscript

I found the climb more demanding on the body than a marathon is.  And hence it does require mental strength and endurance.  More of the body ached and going up and down stairs remained a problem over the next three days.  Full recovery took me more than a week and this is when I am writing this blog.

Lastly, I gained 3kgs immediately after the climb.  This was solely due to edema – ie water retention. But this went away within a week.  So don’t worry about that either.  

Would I do it again?  Writing this three months after?  Yes!